its funny, how i can have so much fun doing something, but still not crave it like others do.
I've always been a bit of a 'dogga' when it comes to surfing. i remember learning for the first time in the crystal aqua of water of Esperence in southern Western Australia when i was about 10. After that i surfed most weekends with my dad and brothers, who are natural watermen. I ended up marrying another lover of the ocean and all things board-riding.
i cant explain how much i love that feeling of weary limbs and sun baked skin after a surf, or that frozen feet feeling on a cold day. yet, still i have never had that drive to surf regularly.
its a bumma. but i guess i've been lucky to enjoy so many good times so far.
hopefully i'll be out there again soon.