September 23, 2011

my return

last sunday morning saw my return to the ocean, going for my first surf in many months. and it was the best day to plan a return! with light offshore winds, small waves between two deep crystal blue channels and the warmth of the spring sun on my face - made for an unbelievable surf. not to mention the fun of running into old friends to share the waves with.

i felt again, that incredible joy, the lightness and energy in the water even with heavy arms and that uncontrollable grin on my face as we walked over the sand to the carpark. STOKE. you hear the word passed around the surfing world a bit, but it makes complete sense. the amount of stoke from a fun surf with friends in the warmth of the spring sun is truly glorious. god has created some amazing playgrounds for us to enjoy, and beautiful fruits to devour from the land with thanks. enjoy.


  1. would love to catch a wave with u soon my friend.

  2. indeed, and we need to chat re: mlorep xx