Showing posts with label surfing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label surfing. Show all posts

November 9, 2016

dipping my toes, back into the inky deep

As i slide across the kings of the sea
   their power rolls beneath me.
The smooth silken touch of their inky skin
   beckons me to slide on in.

The clouds begin to steal their metal hue
   these royals turn pearled-copper.

a.

a long time between drinks, to be continued...

June 3, 2012

rainy weekend at home

this weekend has been one of indoor quietude. not quite like that quietude that Wendell Berry encourages, of stillness, sans technology and open ears to the birds and the trees. (we live in suburbia, up the street from the coal train line and just over the hill from the steel works - there isn't much of that quietude 'round here.)

but, instead, we've stayed in bed longer than usual, drank more cups of tea than usual and explored new areas of this, our 'new town'. as the rain fell yesterday we took the northern distributor to visit some of the nicer northern suburbs that lay between the towering escarpment and the rocky coastline. we huddled under the leaky umbrella and our hoods, watching some mediocre waves roll over the famous Sandon Point. it was my first visit to the famed break. it was pretty beautiful, with the deep inky seas, rolling white horses and voluptuous clouds above.

today, i laid in bed again, keeping safe from the chill and read some of my favourite blogs. after a trip to the corner store i starting baking; some of the tastiest ginger cookies that suit this melancholy weather perfectly.

a.

February 7, 2012

. : new : .

like i said i would do, i have adapted my mantle display with the coming of new art acquisitions and differing floral offerings.

its one of the things i love about this new place, and hopefully something that i won't tire of or cease to enjoy, as the time slips on through this year. over the weekend we were able to pick up an amazing photographic work by this guy. we had bought the piece in an exhibition a month ago...and were patiently waiting for it over the extent of the exhibition showing. (delayed gratification often proves to be the most fulfilling kind, as much as we fight against that crazy 'antiquated' notion.)

first place i thought to put it, was on the mantle - and thats exactly where it is. with some beautiful burnished orange fleurs.
along with said photograph, titled Drawing a Line, shine two tall table candles in crazy metal holders i found at an op shop for a really great price. some of the 'regulars' reappear (antique calibers, rulers and gold N) to carry some continuity.

a.

p.s. i told you i would enjoy this mantlepiece, and maybe over do it. meh

October 8, 2011

. : to 'the point' : .

as a surfer, i know that a point is a good thing; creating almost identical waves, one after the other and generally running for quite some time. i love a good point, as the waves are generally predictable, the rides are long and there is always the safety of the shoulder. you can sit on your board searching the waters below, watching the weeds sway back and forth with each undulating wall of energy, waiting for the next long peeler.

so, i just spent a very good few days at 'the pt.' with some friends, capping off a nice two week break from school. we scored waves, rain (lots of it), thunder, sunshine, quality conversations, frivolity and there was an abundance of food and beverages enjoyed all round. here is some evidence
my friends have a pretty good set up, which i mooched off for a few days. don't worry - i did some beer-buying, wood chopping and a few loads of washing up. i tried to pay my share, but i know that my friends are pretty generous too. i'm a lucky girl

a.

September 23, 2011

my return

last sunday morning saw my return to the ocean, going for my first surf in many months. and it was the best day to plan a return! with light offshore winds, small waves between two deep crystal blue channels and the warmth of the spring sun on my face - made for an unbelievable surf. not to mention the fun of running into old friends to share the waves with.

i felt again, that incredible joy, the lightness and energy in the water even with heavy arms and that uncontrollable grin on my face as we walked over the sand to the carpark. STOKE. you hear the word passed around the surfing world a bit, but it makes complete sense. the amount of stoke from a fun surf with friends in the warmth of the spring sun is truly glorious. god has created some amazing playgrounds for us to enjoy, and beautiful fruits to devour from the land with thanks. enjoy.
a.

June 1, 2010

following the boys.


Getting suited.


Dave and his new swap.



Bunty on his wooden shortboard.

a.





surfing...




its funny, how i can have so much fun doing something, but still not crave it like others do.

I've always been a bit of a 'dogga' when it comes to surfing. i remember learning for the first time in the crystal aqua of water of Esperence in southern Western Australia when i was about 10. After that i surfed most weekends with my dad and brothers, who are natural watermen. I ended up marrying another lover of the ocean and all things board-riding.

i cant explain how much i love that feeling of weary limbs and sun baked skin after a surf, or that frozen feet feeling on a cold day. yet, still i have never had that drive to surf regularly.

its a bumma. but i guess i've been lucky to enjoy so many good times so far.
hopefully i'll be out there again soon.
a.